Day 16 - 6/23/16 Buffalo, NY to ...?

I'm not exactly sure what town I'm in but I'm at the Sheridan Bay Park.  Google Maps lists this place as a campground so I didn't even bother to look into it anymore than that.  I had a nice ride today out of the city and along Lake Erie. It's amazing to see a lake that you can't see to the other side.  I wanted to sleep at Sheridan Bay Park because it's right on the edge of the great lake.  When I came upon the sign for the place I had to laugh at how much it looked like a trailer park ghost town.  There was a fair amount of space but only a small handful of RVs filling it up.  Beyond the campers, I could see the lake through the trees just as I expected.  

But when I looked around to see who was in charge there was no one.  After waiting for a few minutes to see if someone would appear out of no where, a truck came down the driveway. It wasn't the owner but, he told me I could just set up camp anywhere and if Rick, the owner, ever showed up I could pay him for a site.  I liked that idea so I headed for the beach to pitch my tent.  Past the trees and RVs a completely vacant beach awaited me.  Not a huge slice of sand but it was nicet bookended by crumbly rock walls and trees.  

After walking up and down the beach and before I got completely settled, Rick made his way down the hill towards me.  Rick was friendly and apologetic for not being here when I showed up and told me he didn't even want to charge me for the night, just to make myself at home.  Within minutes my tent was set up, my sweaty clothes were laying out to dry, I was eating a peanut butter sandwich, and life was good.  I have a private beach on Lake Erie for the night.  

The sun was setting directly across from my tent so I watched the big orange ball slide beneath the water leaving a pink hue above the horizon.  The beach was also littered with an abundance on the best skipping stones I've ever seen.  I collected and heaved as many as I could at the setting sun, hoping by some miracle I could skip one of them to the other side of the lake.  Sometimes it can be lonely having a campground all to yourself but, something about this massive lake makes me feel like I'm in good company.

Day 15 - 6/22/16 Rapids to Niagara Falls to Buffalo, NY

Waking up at 5:30am to breakdown camp and be on the road before someone notices you behind the fence of a baseball field is not an ideal situation but, it did the trick.  I was only 25 miles from Niagara Falls so I ended up getting there just before 9:00am.  I didn't know where to go or what else there was to do besides look at a lot of water and I was too hungry to do that.  So the first bench I saw I sat down and ate a couple peanut butter sandwiches since I didn't really get a chance to eat much as I was fleeing the scene earlier this morning.  

I eventually stumbled on the path that brough me to an overlook where I could see straight down where all the mist was coming right back up into my face.  The view was good but, I had many more hours to kill before I could head down to my host's house in Buffalo so I grabbed my bike and went to go find more impressive views.  

There's a boardwalk that follows the river up until it dumps over the falls and then veers right where you can see the scene open up: I could see where I had been standing plus the rest of the American side.  Off to the right was the observation deck and beyond that, Rainbow Bridge where cars come and go from Canada.  As far to the left as possible was the grand cul-de-sac of the Canadian falls where the Maid of the Mist boats would make their small circles carrying hoards of tourists swallowed in blue ponchos right into the mist.  

It was quite the view and I couldn't help but just sit and stare for a while.  I had never heard such a loud, continuous roar from a natural source, it practically drowned out all conversations from the swarming tourists and if I stared at the flowing water long enough all the people around me disappeared.  Although this view was great, I kept wondering what the falls look like from the very bottom so I bought a ticket for the Maid of the Mist and headed to the dock.  I put on my blue poncho while we waited to board the boat.  I got right up front on the bow and waited to embark.  

There was an automated voice playing over the intercom giving information about the falls but, it was very muffled and cycled through a few languages and it quickly disappeared behind the rushing sounds of the falls.  There were gasps and collective chatter as we passed the American Falls.  From the bottom, it was a big, moving, white wall that looked like it could evaporate into the high noon sun.  When the wind blew, the mist sprayed onto all the blue people on the boat and there were cheers, loud cheers from everyone.  Then it was on to the Canadian Falls, the big horseshoe of water pouring down, creating a massive plume of mist that rose hundreds of feet out over the tourists heads at the rim above. 

As we got closer and closer, it became clear that staring into the center of all this water, I could see nothing, just bright, white light.  It was like the light of heaven at the end of the tunnel.  Much like the overlooks high above, the immense noise drowned out the presence of all the other people around me and it became a very personal and religious experience between myself and nature and the omniscient high power that ties all of this together.  I felt energized and alive once our boat turned around and docked itself to get ready to bring another load of blue people to the edge of eternity and swiftly bring them back.  The closest experience I've had to this was visiting the redwoods in Northern California.  Being amongst those giants was like being inside a cathedral.  They leave you speechless but if you have to break that silence words only come out in a quiet whisper.  Intimate experiences with nature are special.  To feel small is a powerful thing because it's seeing the truth: we are very small no matter how much we try to impose our will on nature and try to tame her.  Humans can be wiped away by the tremendous forces that exist around us and nature will just go on, with or without us.  It's a miracle that we've been able to coexist for so long.  Once I came to and realized I didn't die and cross over into the great beyond, I got on my Bike and headed for Buffo to meet Nick and Maria.  Is there anything more uplifting than being invited a stranger's house where they're diligently making a beautiful vegan meal while listening to some of your favorite music and you meet their cats that are named after characters from Trailer Park Boys and their collection of books is all very similar to your collection at home?  Nick even has the same Van Gogh Sunflower print and the same random Van Gogh book that I do and then he randomly put on the Beatles' song that I'd been whistling all day at Niagara Falls.  Coincidences can be too much sometimes but, it's better not to overthink them and just accept the fact that you're right where you're suplosed to be.  Nick and Maria are truly wonderful people, in love with music and writing and food and the environment.  I somehow kee meeting these people I feel like I've met before.  I'll take my own advice and not think about it too much.

Day 14 - 6/21/16 Scottsville to Rapids, NY

And I'm back on the road.  It's incredible how much these days vary.  The last 2 nights, I stayed in a warm, loving home in a quiet neighborhood, and tonight I'm in a town that appears to have one gas station and one restaurant which both share the same building.  I'm up the street from there now at a small baseball field with a park.  I think I'll be okay here but, I'm going tobbe waiting a while to set up my tent.  Of course it has to be the longest day of the year today so I'll probably get settled around 9:30.  It's fine though, I'm warm and happy and there's even a port-o-pottie right here so I can change out of my sweaty bike clothes.  The landscape is changing for the better.  The last 3 days of riding have been primarily flat.  There's still lots of wide, open spaces dotted with farms but, that will go away tomorrow and for a few days after that. 

 

But those farms and fields will come back with a vengeance once I get to Ohio and beyond.  Until then, I'm looking forward to seeing Niagara Falls and one of the great lakes.  I'm even curious about Buffalo and other towns along Lake Erie.  Although it doesn't seem ideal to be riding into a city on this trip, I can't pass up seeing Niagara Falls.

Day 13 - 6/20/16 Scottsville, NY - Day Off

First day off of the trip and I spent it exactly how I wanted: eating donuts, writing, drawing, doing laundry, eating more donuts, all while listening to loads of jazz and Jimmy Buffet.  

It was a real hot day, in the 90's with substantial humidity, a great day to not be riding a bike!  Today reminded me of those do-nothing days off I used to love when I actually had a job.  Just doing the things I love that I don't always have the time or energy to do.  It was nice when Mike and Jess got home though.  

They made another great meal and took me out for ice cream (they're really not much older than me, it just sounds like I'm 8 years old).  I've spent some time today trying to figure out where the hell I'm going tomorrow.  It's less than 100 miles to Niagara Falls so I should be looking at a lot of water by Wednesday afternoon.  The only issue is I'm heading to a pretty crowded area that I've never been to before with no final destination at this point.  I've contacted a few people on Warm Showers with no response just yet but, I just have to be patient.  I'm not terribly worried, things always work themselves out one way or another, good or bad, great or horrible (I'm hoping for good or great).  I would be incredibly naïve if I thought this was the only time uncertainty would be hanging over my head.  

Sometimes I'm going to have to start to figure out where I'm going to stop.  It's all part of the fun and excitement and I'm certainly having fun.

Day 12 - 6/19/16 Macedon to Scottsville, NY

This morning I met Colton at the marina.  I came out of the main building to see another 2 bikes parked next to mine– one with one of those small,enclosed trailers you would put a child in.  However, this one had a sign that read, 'caution, dog on board' and sure enough, there was a friendly dog leashed to this bike, just hangin' in the shade.  Colton, although I didn't get to talk to him very long, left from Monterey, CA with his dog and his girlfriend headed for Maine and potentially down to Florida from there to find work.  He wasn't too sure what his long term plans are and I told him I'm in the same boat.  I told him I'm headed to Oregon and from there, hopefully down to San Diego and then who knows?  It was nice talking to someone as clueless about the future as myself but, I think for both of us, just being on our bikes is as much of a plan as we need.  In our conversation, Colton realized he misplaced his map and ran off to find it.  We wished each other the best, I gave his dog another pat on the head and left for Scottsville.  My cousin, Mike, and his wife, Jess, live here.  They have a baby on the way and I'm just so excited for them.  They live in a quiet neighborhood where there are very few people under the age of 60 and not a single backyard on their street is separated by a fence so the neighborhood cats roam freely like the lions they think they are.  

Mike took me to Letchworth State Park in the early afternoon.  A long, paved road cuts right through this protected 17 mile strip of forest where different trails and overlooks run alongside the deep gorge carved out by the Genesee River.  

Looking down the sheer walls into the river we could see clusters of kayakers so far down they looked like skittles on the floor.  

At any given time you could look out and see several turkey vultures floating and circling on the air like wild kites.  

Further of the road we came across the waterfalls that filled the air with a never-ending white noise and a fine mist that would catch the sun and flare into rainbows more colorful than the kayakers.  

On the way back home we cruised through corn fields and farmlands much faster than I'm able to do on my bike.  Mike pointed out the unique features of the ride home, the little details that seem unimportant but would leave the area vacant and impersonal without them: the small cemetery sandwiched between 2 massive expanses of farmland, the barn that burned down last year, the field dotted with old oak trees where him and Jess took their engagement photos, and the foot bridge that crosses the creek where people of all ages jump off and swim on hot days like today.  

It's nice knowing I don't need to wake up and hit the road first thing in the morning.  If there's a better place to spend 2 nights instead of 1, I haven't come across it yet.

Day 11 - 6/18/16 Skaneateles to Macedon, NY

I'm so glad I listened to Hattie and Pete about riding to Macedon instead of Phelps today.  They had done the same ride about a week ago (mine was a little longer because I missed a turn early).  I rode 65 miles to get here and I still feel great.  It was an entirely flat ride but, 65 miles is 65 miles.  I have a good feeling I'll be cruising through the Mid West where I have many 55-75 mile rides planned out.  

Camp is set up at Mid Lakes Marina tonight, right along the Eerie Canal.  Hattie's friend works here and she let me set up my tent and use the showers.  It's such a reassuring feeling to know you're taken care of for the night; even if it's just getting the green light to set up a tent in the yard.  I don't need anything else but, I appreciate it with all my heart when anything extra is given to me.  I feel so in debt already and it hasn't even been two weeks yet.  In debt with all the hospitality being directed towards me.  Pete did say that people love cyclists and will go out of their way to help.  The debt I feel is a good debt.  I can't wait to pay it back and pay it forward some way in the future.

Day 10 - 6/17/16 Cazenovia to Skaneateles, NY

I only rode about 36 miles today but endured some of the longest hills I've ever seen.  Going down one of them, I didn't even pedal and I hit 42 mph.  I felt like I was on a rollercoaster, speeding to the bottom to slingshot back up again.  I could feel my cheeks rippling in the wind like something out of a cartoon.  The best part was riding into town on 20 West.  Once in Skaneateles, the road was covered in shade by the big trees and it's all downhill right into the center where you can see beautiful Lake Skaneateles. 

 

I stopped in one of the parks to eat and drink and cool off and admire the aqua blue lake embedded within the green hills I had rode over to get here.  I got in touch with Hattie, my host for the night, and she met me at the park.  There was a cluster of people waiting to board this boat that does tours around the lake.  Little did I know, this was Hattie's boat.  When she appeared out of the crowd and introduced herself, she asked if I wanted to go for a ride.  How do you say no to that?  We weren't out on the water for too long– maybe an hour.  It was gorgeous, to say the least.  

A hot June day with hardly a cloud in the sky on one of the 3 cleanest lakes in the country.  Upon docking at the park again, I said goodbye to Hattie.  She is the owner and the captain of the ship and would be giving tours for the rest of the day.  So I went to go meet her boyfriend, Pete, back at their house.  Pete has been retired for a couple years now.  Since then, him and Hattie rode their bikes from New York to Florida; the trip on which they spent nights crashing with strangers they met on Warm Showers, just like me.  The hot afternoon melted away while we talked about biking and adventures and retirement and had a few beers while doing so. 

 

As the sun went down, we sat out on the porch, smoked a joint and talked more about biking while we waited for Hattie to get off of work.  Pete took his bike across country back in the 70's. He also told me about when he was 18 and didn't have a car so he would ride his bike all year, even through the snow in the winter.  It was such a nice night, the porch was dark and we were both absorbed in the magic of bicycling while the smoke danced around our heads.  I felt like I was talking to someone my own age, not some 60 something year old retired guy.  How do some people grow old, never seeming to lose their youthful view of the world?  Hattie is the exact same way.  Being with the two of these amazing people, there was a feeling of timelessness–it's hard to explain.  But I guess what I've taken from them is to have fun and share the love.

Day 9 - 6/16/16 Bridgewater to Cazenovia, NY

It's funny how a lake can be the reason for flourishing community.  Much like Amherst, Cazenovia New York is quite rural and spread out while also having a lovely center filled with mom and pop shops and cafes slinging local coffee and dishes made with local ingredients and live music that becomes part of the song of everyday life in this town.  I'm staying with John, his girlfriend, Mimi, and their one-eyed golden retriever, Teddy.  They've been living in this house for less than 3 years and John couldn't tell me one thing he doesn't like about this place.  Their home isn't right on the water but, they have their own walkway that goes down to their dock where the 4 of us watched the sunset tonight.  

That big orange ball dipped behind the hills across the lake, the hills John and Mimi said I would be riding over tomorrow.  Neither of them keeping a straight face, I couldn't tell if they were implying the hills are massive and I'm in for a hell of a ride or if they want want me to think I'm screwed when it's actually going to be a flat ride.  I'll just have to wait and see.  John has been retired for 10 years now and I asked him if he ever feels like he has too much time on his hands to which he replied: "I have more toys than I know what to do with."  He's 75 years old and just bought a motorcycle before he had ever ridden one.  

He also has 4 boats and a new, ultra-sleek RV and, of course, a fancy touring bicycle that he still rides everyday.  It was nice, one retired guy talking to another but, I wonder if John would be as happy without all his toys.  I guess that's just one way to retire: work 50 years and then spend al your money on toys and trips.  But then there's my way: work 10 years and then quit and pretend you're retired and see how long you can hang out before you need to work again.

Day 8 - 6/15/16 Sharon Springs to Bridgewater, NY

Today was spent mostly on Rt. 20, a scenic byway was how the sign described it.  I can't disagree with that.  There wasn't too much of a variety of scenery but, rolling over hill after hill, passing farm after farm was a beautiful thing in the early light of the morning.  I woke up at 5:00 this morning to a bunch of crows squawking like maniacs.  So after breaking down camp and another quick stop at the local Stewart's Shop, I was on the road by 8:00.  

I made it to my deatination by 1:00 in the afternoon, Lake Chalet Motel and Campground.  This place is great.  Mike and his wife, Chrissy, own and operate the property which includes a hefty amount of space for maybe 20 RV's, about half a dozen little cabins and 45 tent sites all surrounding this small lake with a dock and a roped off section for swimming.  

Again, I'm the only one camping in a tent and I didn't see anyone go in or come out of any of the RV's.  There's a big roofed porch area they refer to as the pavilion near the main building.  There are many picnic tables inside and all the vertical and horizontal beams are strung with lights.  It would be a great place to party if there was anyone else here.  I swear, one of these nights I stay at a campground, there will be other people to share the experience with. 

Day 7 - 6/14/16 Schenectady to Sharon Springs, NY

Today was the longest ride yet: just under 53 miles.  It was also the flattest day.  I also spent a good amount of time talking on the phone.  I talked to Nick who just got home from Bonnaroo.  He said it was amazing and I can totally imagine it was.  I talked to my mom and dad and sent a video to Meg for Ava.  I need to send her something.  I want to send her a rock from every state I ride through.  But I think I also want to draw on the rock or write something but I don't know what.  Plus I also haven't seen anything good in New York as far as rocks go...  

I got a sunburn today when I took my shirt off to dry it out while I took a break and ate some food and made those phone calls. My tent is set up behind a dugout of a baseball field, I don't think anyone will bother me here.  There wasn't much of a view on the ride today.  It was just like most bike paths that are totally surrounded by greenery.  But at points there were some quick views of the Mohawk River and I did get to cross a bridge and there were some nice mountain views.  But once I got within 10 miles of Sharon Springs– off the bike path, the landscape changed to rolling hills of green grass dotted with farms.  Dutch Country, the Amish.

Day 6 - 6/13/16 Petersburg to Schenectady, NY

A real beautiful day out on the road but, the best part was getting to Schenectady.  I was planning on stealth-camping somewhere in one of the parks but, Matt A. put me in touch with his wonderful friend from college, Meghan.  Her and her boyfriend, Radhe, and their dog, Bruiser, and their neighbors Brian and Russ, made me feel right at home.  Meghan's neighborhood reminded me of Somerville being so clustered together with older homes and small gardens.  I'm so thankful Radhe had an unusual hunch to make a vegan meal and feel so lucky for Brian letting me borrow his panniers for my bike.

  

In these areas where farms are such a close source of fruits and veggies and meat and dairy and eggs, I've had great conversations about eating vs. not eating animal products.  I didn't eat anything from these farms but, from what I've been told, the concern for the animal's well-being (while it's alive...) is what gives way to a higher quality product.  Unfortunately, not all areas are like this.  Instead of animal products being treated as a sort of delicacy, they have become commodities– mass produced in an unhealthy way to meet the demand for them.  So it's a tough truth that not all parts of the world can have these sorts of products readily available at such a high quality, there's just not enough room in the world.  Anyway, back on the road to continue across the beautiful state of New York.

Day 5 - 6/12/16 Cummington, MA to Petersburg, NY

Feelin' like I'm in the groove!  Crossing into New York felt great.  I wonder when I'll be in Massachusetts again.  Today was good but also mentally draining for some reason.  The wind was severe, a constant head-wind.  In those rare moments when it let up for a second I felt like I was being sucked into a vacuum on the downhills.  The sky turned grey and and the air got cold.  As I rode on, the sky even started spitting.  It never broke into a full rain while I was riding but it was nerve-wracking since I didn't know where exactly I'd set up camp.  I'm very grateful there turned out to be a campground in the state park I was riding through.  

Not to mention with showers!  3 days in a row with showers, that's impressive.  The campground is beautiful and I'm the only one here.  It sits next to a small pond that's completely surround by trees.  Once I got my tent set up, the sky finally decided to rain a bit harder.  The weather bummed me out a little bit but it's important to be mindful of these suckier situations.  Just because the rain isn't what I want doesn't mean someone or something or someplace else might actually need it.  It's like going up and down hills.  I've decided to subject myself to the elements, being wet and cold is basically in the description.